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In This Issue:
"WINTER WOES"
"CURT
PATE CHALLENGES THE ONE-REIN STOP"
THE MOST
"MISUNDERSTOOD" HORSE
INSPIRATION FOR LEVEL
II
Contact Info
"WINTER WOES"
 A
Level I graduate recently contacted the group for advice on dealing with static
electricity when she took the blanket off of her horse. The problem has become
so bad that the horse is terrified of the blanket; is reluctant to take treats
from the owners hand; and, is hyper-reactive to any "snapping" noise, including
a clicker. The timing of her question is terrific!
The dry, arctic air of winter causes static electricity to develop with the
slightest amount of friction between two surfaces. This is the reason why your
hair stands on end when you pull a sweater over your head. Of course, your horse
hates static just as much as you do. Since horses are very sensitive creatures,
it only takes one or two unintentional zaps before they learn to keep their
distance.
"Static Guard" is a wonderful product that is available in the laundry product
aisle of your local grocery store. This is a "winter staple" along with dryer
sheets around the barn. I spray the inside of the blanket with Static Guard just
before I put the blanket on, and I rub my horse down with a fresh dryer sheet
before blanketing. The dryer sheet smells nice, works as a dust magnet, and
prevents static from developing when I drag the blanket across my horse's back.
I have developed a routine of always allowing my horse to sniff and touch my
hand with her nose, before I touch her. In the past, I had zapped my poor horse
so many times that she no longer offers to approach me in the wintertime until
she can see, or smell the dryer sheet first. I call her my "idiot-proof" horse.
This is my training plan:
I begin the process with the dryer sheets. I put the horse on a 12' lead rope
and allow the horse to sniff the dryer sheet. As soon as the horse is bored with
examining it, I start rubbing the horse with the dryer sheet, beginning at the
face and working my way toward the tail. Some horses may object to the smell at
first, while some horses may try to pull away from you as soon as you begin
rubbing them with the dryer sheet. Be prepared to shorten your lead rope so that
you can remain persistent, while using the approach and retreat method over any
particularly sensitive areas. If your horse enjoys being groomed with a soft
brush, then he will find the dryer sheet just as enjoyable even if it does smell
strange.
Next, I take advantage of desensitizing the horse to the process of spraying the
blanket with Static Guard. I throw the blanket over the fence (inside-out) and
spray it with the Static Guard, making sure that my horse isn't standing
down-wind, and inhaling the fumes, or getting sprayed in the eye. Basically, I
ignore the horse while I spray and move the blanket around. Once the blanket has
been sprayed with Static Guard, I'm ready to toss the blanket over the horse's
back.
If your horse is hyper-reactive to blanketing, then you will want to add a third
step to this process and use the "approach and retreat" method to desensitize
the horse to the blanket (sniff, rub, toss, & repeat). Don't forget to toss the
blanket around your horse from both the right and left sides.
I keep dryer sheets everywhere in the winter so they are always handy. This
prevents me from being inconsistent, and keeps my horse happy. I hope this helps
you to build better partnerships with your horses this winter.
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"CURT PATE
CHALLENGES THE ONE-REIN STOP"
 In
the January, 2007 edition of "Western Horseman Magazine", Curt Pate described
his new "Cavalry Stop". The Montana horseman prefers this method over the
one-rein-stop, citing that several riders were injured when their horses fell
after using the one-rein-stop in emergency situations.
The "Cavalry Stop" originated with military instructors who needed a simple
method to teach inexperienced cavalry troops how to quickly achieve control of
their mounts. The manuever maintains the horse in a straight alignment by using
one rein against the horse's neck to maintain straightness, while lifting the
other rein vertically to "check" the horse's forward momentum. By elevating the
horse's head, the horse automatically begins to slow his speed.
Curt Pate argues that his method is a better alternative for trail riders who
may not be able to bend a horse safely on a narrow trail. He also feels that the
Cavalry Stop keeps the rider in better control because the horse and rider are
both able to maintain their balance.
Offering horsemen more "choices" to help protect ourselves and our equine
partners rates very high with me, so I have been learning the "Cavalry Stop"
with a group of polo horses in Tampa, previously schooled in the one-rein stop.
I will be introducing this great technique to everyone in the 2007 clinic
season, in addition to the one-rein stop.
THE MOST
"MISUNDERSTOOD" HORSE
 Quite
often, people incorrectly interpret a horse's fearful, anxious, and sensitive
behavior as bullish, stubborn and willful. All too frequently, well-meaning
friends and trainers encourage the owner to "Get tough!" with the horse; when
what the horse really needs is compassion and a new set of skills to teach him
how to "think" his way through his anxiety. "Getting tough" with an unconfident
horse puts "partnership" at risk. Even worse, engaging in a fight with an
unconfident horse only makes the behavior escalate because the rider becomes
insistent; precisely at the moment the horse tells the rider that he is
uncertain or afraid. The cure for fear is not force and humiliation.
Let's take a closer look at what the unconfident horse looks like. The simple
task of learning makes him anxious. No matter how many rewards you offer, or how
small the task may be, the horse is "crabby" and uncooperative. Issues like
entering an arena to ride, or heading toward a particular place or "thing" seems
to cause, or escalate all kinds of unwanted behavior like a slow, short, choppy
stride; ears back/nostrils pinched; resistance to your aids; bucking; rearing;
biting; pawing; nervous eating; won't move; etc.
On the ground, the horse is a "space invader". He crowds his handler, and he may
even attempt to resist by "shutting down" completely. In the saddle, he causes
his rider to work hard making constant corrections, and he may attempt to brush
his rider against a fence, or walk backwards.
The reality about horses is: they aren't much different from people. Think about
something you hate to do, or, something you hate to talk about. To what length
would you go (or what have you done in the past) to avoid being confronted?
Confrontation makes people defensive, which leads to "manipulative" behaviors
intended to deflect discomfort. "Manipulation" isn't unique to humans; it is a
survival tactic seen in many animal species.
The unconfident horse benefits most from strong leadership. His insecurity makes
him appear obnoxious and pushy because he needs to know that someone is "in
charge". His insecurities may compel him to test your leadership often. The more
insecure the horse feels, the more frequently you will be challenged. Horses
have three needs: 1) The need for comfort food, shelter, rest & leisure,
affection, freedom from pain, freedom from nuisance, etc. 2) The need for safety
safe from predators and other threats. 3) The need for fun playing dominance
games, and engaging in activities that have a reward at the end (comfort).
Unconfident horses possess a heightened sensitivity in order to guard their own
need for safety. They require strong leadership to feel safe and secure,
therefore, they constantly test your ability to step-up and be in-charge. The
unconfident horse learns better with short, simple, and frequent repetition,
coupled with frequent rest breaks and lavish, "feel-good" praise. He is most
comfortable when he is given plenty of time to think about what he just
experienced, and the experience is immediately followed with a reward (treats,
petting, and rest).
The Equine Connections program teaches people how to communicate clearly using
body language, equine psychology, and, equine learning behavior. It is my
personal opinion that owners can't fix problems with horses until they honestly
and accurately understand themselves as a leader, learner, partner, and a
teacher. Only after this self-assessment, can humans understand their horse on a
mental and emotional level. When you empower yourself with knowledge, you
empower your horse.
INSPIRATION FOR LEVEL II
 While
Level I was straightforward and basic, Level II is a very different kind of
program. With the information and skills you learned in Level I, you have laid
the foundation for safe and predictable behavior with your horse. The both of
you know what to expect from one another. Your patience, understanding, and
compassion for your horse are recognizable to your horse, and make the process
of advancing to higher levels possible. But there is much more to the
horsemanship experience than playing dominance games and developing a good "whoa
and go" under saddle.
If you think of your horsemanship education in terms of kindergarten, high
school and university; Level II is horsemen's high school. After you and your
horse have a safe foundation to work from, anything and everything is possible.
In Level I, your previous experience, comfort levels, and knowledge regarding
horses was challenged; perhaps creating some new insecurities and frustrations
from time to time. I am the first to admit that change is extremely difficult,
particularly when it is directed at your own behavior.
The focus of the Level II course is advanced riding skills, behavior
recognition, and the introduction of behavior shaping methods. Where Level I
taught you to recognize the differences between trust and respect issues, the
Level II course will provide you with "challenges" to assess the degree to which
you have trust and respect in the relationship, as well as the skills necessary
to resolve any existing problems.
Making the commitment to work at Level II is similar to making the commitment to
go back to night school. You will go beyond the "fundamentals" to achieve a much
more "formal" education in equine behavior, learning theory, and training
methods. Clearly, the higher levels of the Equine Connections program do not
appeal to everyone, but for those of you that might be thinking about advancing
your knowledge, NOW is the time to decide how far you might want to go.
As you ponder this decision, I encourage you to contact me for further
information. The Level II class sizes are much smaller, and an unforgettable
learning experience.
Best wishes to all, and I look forward to working with you in 2007.
Click here to
"CONTACT US"
Learn how to play hard & ride naturally at www.equineconnections.net
1-888-412-3756
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Celebrating True
Partnership in 2007
In This Issue:
PUSH; DON'T PULL
JACKIE'S TRAINING TIP
FEATURED PRODUCT: MECATE KEEPER
WISHING YOU THE BEST IN 2007
Contact Info
PUSH; DON'T PULL
Have
you ever watched a horse and rider making turns and changes in direction that
appeared "poetic" with every stride? This is the difference between pushing your
horse through a turn with your seat, and pulling with your reins. Most of us are
taught to ask for a turn with our legs and our reins, but a crucial step is
missing . . . The use of our seat. Study the photo carefully, because it is a
great example of why pulling with your reins looks ugly and doesn't work.
I would like to present some helpful tips to set up your horse for success when
it comes to turns. The first and most important aid in a turn is your seat. Try
this exercise while sitting in a flat chair, or on an exercise ball: Sit on your
balance point in the chair or on the ball, with your feet spread apart. Remember
that your balance point is between your seat bones and your tail bone. This
requires that you "round" your lower back without slouching at the shoulders.
Put your hands in front of your lap, just like they would be when riding.
Imagine that you are going to make a left turn. Look with your eyes. Let your
shoulders follow your eyes. What do you feel with your seat? Does your right
seat bone feel heavier than your left? Try making a right turn. Now, imagine
that you have a set of eyeballs on your knee caps. If you let the eyeballs on
your knees follow the eyeballs on your head, and your shoulders follow your
eyes, you should begin to feel a bit more pressure on your outside seat bone.
Here is one more trick: Let's say that your horse feels stiff in the turn
despite the use of your all the other aids. You can help your horse by bending
your ribcage to mimic the bend you would like to have in your horse's ribs (This
will cause your outside shoulder to come up). Do you feel the difference in the
weight of your seat bone? This is how perfect turns begin.
Let's explore these cues in more detail. When you ride on your balance point,
you are less inclined to lean forward, or ride with stiffness in your body. For
those of you who have attended a clinic, you should be familiar with the use of
"shims". The idea of shimming a saddle is nothing new or unique. There are many
commercial shims designed to help correct saddle-fit problems, however, I
encourage the use of shims, not only to correct saddle fitting issues (After you
learn to put the saddle in a different location than we have traditionally been
taught), but to help riders achieve a deep and balanced seat. The more a rider
compensates for the saddle and poor position, the more the rider becomes stiff
and braces against the horse. Stiffness in your body will cause you to "hollow"
your back, which is completely counterproductive to riding.
I see plenty of riders staring at their horse's head as if they were
communicating "telepathically". It's an easy habit to develop, but difficult to
break. If you want your horse to watch where he is going and learn to follow the
feel of your aids, then you have to assume responsibility for your own riding,
as well as trust that your horse will do as you asked without watching him. The
next issue is using your shoulders to follow your eyes. Allowing your shoulders
to follow your eyes causes you to bend your upper body, as opposed to "leaning
into" a turn. When your upper body starts to move independently of your lower
body, your aids become more clear and effective.
Think of your legs like doors that open and close. If you give someone two doors
to choose from, and you tell them to use the door on the right, but they head
toward the door on the left; you could close the door on the left to make your
instructions more clear. Using your lower legs like doors provides the
resistance necessary to emphasize your cues. When I ride, I use my entire leg by
using the different parts of my leg in "phases" to emphasize what I want. I
imagine that I have eyeballs on my kneecaps so that my lower body gives the same
cue as my upper body. If I'm making a left turn, my seat sets up the turn, as
well as my upper body. The deeper the turn, the more I will use my leg. A gentle
turn will only require that I close my outside knee on my horse. When I use my
knee to provide pressure, my inside thigh also becomes heavy against my horse.
The more dramatic a turn is, the more it may be necessary to use my calf to
create pressure, in addition to my knee (and thigh).
Finally, if my horse tends to "track" crooked on a straight line; I know I will
probably have to help him to bend on a turn. It is quite common for horses to be
"collapsed" on one side of their body because their suppleness and muscle
development tends to be better on one side, leading to a "unidirectional" horse
that moves better in one direction, but not in the other. If I use my body to
create the bend necessary to help my horse, he will develop his suppleness and
musculature much more quickly and easily.
Remember that you dramatize to teach, and refine along the way. The "Riding
Naturally" course is a great way to learn these techniques and many more.
CLINICS AND SERVICES AVAILABLE
JACKIE'S TRAINING TIP
In any training that you do, be it in hand or
under saddle, the fastest way to get your horse to accomplish something new is
to reward the smallest effort. Not only does the reward have to match the scope
of what you are asking, it also has to have some meaning to your hose. To put an
example in human terms, suppose your paycheck for a days work was not money,
but blank pieces of paper . . . for a person, this isn't much of a reward, and
it certainly isn't going to encourage any future effort at their job.
Just as different people have different rewards that motivate them, so do
horses. Some equines are motivated, or rewarded by food, while others prefer an
encouraging word or pat. Depending upon the circumstances, rewarding a horse
might mean taking the saddle off, or just walking away and leaving them alone.
In any case, the most important things about the reward system is that the
reward be earned AND that the reward be paid. Horses can be quick to train us
into believing hat they are owed their reward, and this can lead to behavior
that is offensive - like mugging, sulking or refusing to perform. When we, as
trainers, can use rewards as a payment system, we can teach our horses to put in
an honest days work for an honest days pay (with bonuses for exceptional
effort). Humans may sometimes forget how important that reward is to their
horses, and forget to issue payment for desired effort. This can also lead to
behavior problems where our horses might get moody, resistant and show a general
unwillingness to be around their humans (hard to catch problems are a prime
example of this).
So when working with your horses, don't forget to reward their efforts. Happy
horses are those who have trainers who appreciate them, and pay a fair wage for
a fair amount of effort.
Jackie Johnson is a trick trainer and entertainer in Saskatchewan, Canada. She
generously offers training tips and advice to Equine Connections students.
VISIT
JACKIE ON THE WEB
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it is stamped with the Equine Connections logo. It attaches to the front d-rings
of your english or western saddle, and it is designed to release immediately,
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Riding with your lead rope and halter gives you the convenience and control of
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WISHING YOU THE BEST IN 2007
I am grateful for my family, my friends, the
horses that have passed through my hands, and the horse owners who have been
courageous and willing to achieve a new level of horsemanship.
I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays. I look forward to starting the 2007
season with some new skills and ideas to offer you. I wish you and your horses
the very best in the New Year.
Winter is a great time to have fun and try new things like ski joring and
driving your horse from an interlude or saucer sled. When you have fun . . . so
does your horse! See you very soon & I hope you will drop me an e-mail to keep
in touch. Send along your winter photos for the newsletter!
E-MAIL A MESSAGE OR
PHOTOS
Learn how to play hard & ride naturally at www.equineconnections.net
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HOLIDAY ISSUE
In This Issue:
"I LOVE MY HORSE BECAUSE" . . .
WHEN "AGENDAS COLLIDE"
"BAREBACK 101"
Contact Info
"I LOVE MY HORSE BECAUSE" . . .
 In
this holiday issue of the newsletter, tell us about your horse(s): why he makes
you laugh; why he makes you cry; and why your relationship with him is special.
Include your favorite photo of you with your horse for a future issue & receive
a complimentary gift to say thanks from Equine Connections.
Happy Holidays!
TELL US YOUR STORY . . .
WHEN "AGENDAS COLLIDE"
The dream of most horse owners is to be able to
ride their horse anywhere, and at any time
they wish. But the reality is that the agendas of horses and riders are never
the same. The problem starts out with one thing, and then another, and then
another, until a laundry list of issues develop: The owner can't catch the
horse; the horse doesn't like to be groomed; he won't stand still for saddling;
he won't stand still for mounting; he bites when the girth is tightened; he
doesn't pick up his feet; he's clumsy; he won't leave the door yard; he's
spooky; he's slow or won't go; he doesn't stop; he pulls on the reins . . . the
list goes on and on. This is what I call "THE AGENDA COLLISION". I have had all
the broken bones, concussions, abrasions, dislocations, and scars to prove it.
Humans are predators. We can't help it because we are pre-programmed for the
behavior. The agenda of the predatory, horse-owning human is to have the horse
behave and perform perfectly without the human actually having to put out much
effort. Most people don't see that they approach their horse with an agenda in
mind, and they become frustrated when the horse fails to cooperate with the
plan.
On the other hand, horses are prey animals. Their agenda is to hang out in a
herd, eat, drink, and conserve their energy for times when they perceive they
should run away. For fun, they play games with one another.
When you compare these two agendas, it is clear that humans and horses think in
opposition to one another. Humans want and expect one thing, while the horse
wants something entirely different, causing our interest and passion for our
horse to wane over time.
How do you avoid "the agenda collision"? It begins with realizing that you have
to change your own thinking and behavior so that it is more "horse-like" and
"horse-friendly". With a fresh strategy of creativity, fun, affection,
leadership, and communication; you can make anything happen. I like to think of
the relationship between horse and human as a "partnership". On one end of the
continuum, you have TRUST, and on the other end you have RESPECT. Trust and
respect are earned, and you can't have respect without creating trust first.
Agendas have no place in a partnership because they invite oppositional
behavior. No matter what your dream is, you have to work at developing the
horse's trust and respect for your leadership.
Developing trust with a horse takes time and patience, so if it takes weeks or
months to get a horse to the point where he runs to you at the mere sight of
you, and shows willingness, acceptance, and enthusiasm during your time
together; then these are weeks or months of time that are well-spent. Developing
a partnership is a "journey". The more effort you put into the partnership, the
faster the partnership will happen. This doesn't mean that you need to spend
every waking moment with your horse, but it does mean that you spend quality
time with your horse getting to know him in ways that you never knew him before.
When your intentions become unpredictable; the horse can no longer anticipate
your actions. Many horses run away from their owners, so if your horse is
running away from you, he's sending you a message that he doesn't want to be
with you. Instead of becoming frustrated with the horse, you should ask yourself
why? The most common reason is a self-serving agenda. Spend equal amounts of
demanding and undemanding time with the horse. Learn to observe your horse's
body language. What makes him nervous and defensive? What makes him feel
comfortable and secure?
Most people only interact with their horse for the purposes of catching the
horse to ride, or to do ground work, like lunging. The human has a plan in mind,
and rarely deviates from a routine. Routines are comfortable for humans, because
they don't require any creativity, and they don't require predatory behaviors to
change. However, horses get bored easily with work routines, which causes them
to anticipate and misbehave. Ideally, you want your horse to "want" what you
want.
By developing your creativity, you develop your horse's curiosity, thinking
ability, and interest. Keep your work time short and simple. Sometimes you catch
the horse simply to give them a scratch and a treat, and then let them go.
Sometimes you just sit in the pasture and read a book. Sometimes you take them
out to do ground work. Sometimes you take them for a walk and let them graze
here and there, and, sometimes you take them for a ride. Every time you ride or
do groundwork, your focus should be on your own self-improvement; not the
perfection of your horse. The "perfect horse" will emerge after you perfect
yourself.
When you spend the time understanding your horse, and what you can do to help
him to succeed; you will develop "partnership", complete with trust and respect.
Partnership allows you to live your dreams with horses and reach new levels of
horsemanship that you never thought were possible.
"BAREBACK 101"
 Riding
bareback is a great way to improve your balance and refine your natural riding
aids, giving you the "ultimate" close-contact riding experience.
Riding bareback for one-two hours per week will help break the cycle of bad
habits like gripping with your lower legs and knees, jamming your feet into the
stirrups, leaning, and bracing. Bareback riding should be used as an adjunct to
your regular schooling program in a properly fitting saddle.
Inexperienced riders should learn to ride in a saddle first. Saddles are
designed to "hold" your balance because of the shape of the seat and the
placement of the stirrup bars. Saddles are constructed in such a way that they
keep the rider in a centered position, while the rider's muscles memorize the
position necessary to maintain balance and alignment. Intermediate and advanced
riders benefit greatly from bareback riding because it helps the rider to
develop better "synchronicity" with their horse's movement as well as correct
any balance problems that they were not necessarily aware of.
Just as you would develop your riding skills in a saddle, you should progress
slowly on a bareback pad. The key to riding naturally is to take the "brace" out
of your body from head to toe. Ride your horse in a small, enclosed area and
just be a passenger. Allow the horse to go where he wants to go, and stop where
he wants to stop so that you learn how to develop a nice "following" seat. As
you take the brace out of your body, your pelvis and upper body will begin to
swing from side to side and from front to back with each stride. [Think about
this fact: With each stride of the horse at a walk (a 4-beat gait), the human
body moves in almost 400 different planes. This is why new riders and people who
ride infrequently become sore]. If you are experiencing back pain from riding,
you should use this exercise to train yourself to stay pain-free. The cause of
most pain while riding is tension. Most of us don't realize how much we grip
until we learn how it feels not to.
From a walk, transition up to the sitting trot/jog. Learn to absorb the motion
with your lower body by remaining loose and rounding your lower back, without
leaning forward. If you can't pull your lower legs away from your horse while
maintaining your balance and suppleness, then you should transition back to a
walk and work on pushing your butt down and rounding your lower back, and then
transition up again. Isolate the problem . . . is it you or the horse? Use
transitions to perfect your riding and teach your horse to follow your cues with
lightness.
Once your horse has achieved safe behavior on the ground and in the saddle
through the Level I program, I encourage regular bareback riding in order to
assess the horse's lightness in response to your aids. Developing an
"independent seat" is achieved much faster with regular time spend on a bareback
pad.
Bareback pads increase your safety and security when you choose the right pad.
The "Ultimate" bareback pad is one of the safest on the market because of its
unique design features. Use of a bareback pad improves the comfort of the horse
and rider; therefore, both are able to give a better performance, compared to
not using a pad at all.
The "Ultimate" Bareback Pad is the BEST available on the market! We can say this
because we personally tested 11 of the top sellers, including Parelli's ® pad.
WHAT MAKES THIS PAD DIFFERENT ?
~The inner core is made of layered wool felt which is quilted to create
additional loft and prevent the pad from "memorizing" your seat. Not only does
this design create comfort for the rider, but the horse is more comfortable
because of the channeled quilting.
~The under-side of the pad is made of a neoprene waffle-design, which allows for
air flow, impact absorption, and prevents slippage.
~The top-side is made of high quality, color-fast suede that won't transfer dye
to your clothing or skin. The suede also prevents the rider from slipping, which
is a common problem with fabric and fleece covered bareback pads.
~The "Ultimate" bareback pad is designed so that you use your own girth or
cinch. This is what creates safety. Most bareback pads have their own girth
attached. These pads are extremely dangerous because they cannot be cinched
tight enough which can cause the rider to pull the pad over, especially when
stirrups are attached to the pad.
~The "Ultimate" Bareback pad has a leather "grab strap" for added safety, and
the nylon-backed harness leather on the billets will prevent premature wear. You
won't find a more durable bareback pad for the money.
COLORS: Black, Forest, Purple, Navy, Dark-brown,
Light-brown, Tan, Rust, Red. Custom colors available on request.
GIRTH STYLE: English or Western (girth/cinch NOT included) our preferred product
is the english style.
Price: $165.00 (S&H included)
If you are looking for the perfect holiday gift, the Ultimate Bareback Pad is a
great choice.
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1-888-412-3756
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"MAKING THE
CONNECTION" OCT/NOV, 2006
In This Issue:
FEATURED PRODUCT -"SLOBBER STRAPS 411"?
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER CLINICS
"WHAT HORSES HAVE TO TEACH US" . . .
" MOVING FORWARD WITH YOUR HORSEMANSHIP"
Contact Info
FEATURED PRODUCT -"SLOBBER STRAPS 411"?
Most
people associate natural horsemanship with western riding and training, but the
truth is that natural horsemanship is for people who desire a deeper
understanding of horses and a relationship based on mutual trust and respect.
Natural horsemanship isn't limited by the boundaries of any specific discipline.
Your horse doesn't care what type of saddle or bridle you use, or what clothes
you wear, but they do care about leadership, communication, and having a
partnership.
Most natural horsemen "mix and match" their equipment to suit the level of
training of their horse, or to best communicate what they want to teach. One of
my favorite pieces of equipment are slobber straps. The longer and the heavier
they are, the more I like them.
First of all, slobber straps work because they provide constant weight on the
bit, so when you pick up your reins, the horse feels the change of weight and
immediately knows that you are about to ask for something. Gaining the horse's
attention is the first step to getting the horse to follow your cues. Secondly,
slobber straps help you to develop your feel and timing. The goal is to develop
hands that are slow to close when you take up contact with the horse's mouth;
and, release quickly so that you are rewarding an appropriate response. The
extra weight on the bit is comforting to the horse, and it also helps to teach
the horse a lower head carriage (Not to be confused with vertical flexion!).
Let's examine more closely how these two principles work. Imagine that you are
at a halt and you pick up your reins to ask for forward movement. The release of
weight on the bit, in addition to your seat and hands coming forward, sends
energy from the back to the front of the horse. When you pick up your reins, the
release of weight from the slobber straps "alert" the horse that a cue is about
to follow; therefore, the horse is much more likely to follow your cues, because
you are saying to your horse "listen up".
The length of the slobber strap is an important feature. The longer the strap,
the less severe it is because you don't need to go to full mouth contact. In
addition, slobber straps have a certain amount of "give" to them. This places
the responsibility of focus on your horse (AKA: A thinking horse!).
When you micro-manage your horse by riding with full contact all the time, you
are telling him that he doesn't need to think on his own. You are leaving your
leadership to "chance" as to whether or not he will chose to follow your cues.
However, if your cues become increasingly more subtle and light, the horse will
be more likely to make a conscious effort to think about what you are asking him
to do. As the horse's focus is "heightened", he will start doing what you ask,
quicker and without resistance. Consistency on your part is essential.
In order to accommodate the slobber straps, you will need a bit with a 3" or
larger round ring. A simple ring snaffles is a good choice. My own personal
preference is a sweet iron bit, adjusted on the bridle so that there are NO
WRINKLES on the sides of the lips. I add a curb strap to keep the rings of the
snaffle stabilized and in place. The curb strap is especially important for
horses who are stiff and resistant to lateral flexion, because the bit tends to
slide through the mouth when you ask them to flex. The curb strap will prevent
this from happening (It works like a full cheek snaffle). Since I want my horse
to learn how to carry the bit himself and keep his mouth shut, adjusting the bit
for a loose fit will emphasize your wishes. The only time I would use a flash
attachment or nose cavesson is when a horse tries to put his tongue over the bit
or park his tongue on the side of his mouth (Yuk!). If you have a problem with
your horse doing this, use a flash or cavesson and apply it so that it is very
snug (You can attach a flash attachment to the rope halter; use an english
bridle; or, they do make western cavessons that can be added to a western
bridle). The objective is to keep the horse's "yap" shut!
I have also found that head tossing can be resolved using slobber straps. If 80%
of your riding is done on a loose rein, then head tossing will cause the slobber
straps to bounce around and annoy the horse to the point where he will stop the
behavior. Head tossing and lip smacking are signs of anxiety, so you will need
to work on his confidence (hopefully from the ground to ensure that the horse
can be safely ridden).
I also ride with a western bridle or a clip-on bridle, so that my rope halter
and lead rope stay on my horse at all times. If I need to get off and resolve a
problem from the ground, then I have the tools available, while adding to my
control. In order to keep my 12' rope out of the way, I use a mecate keeper and
create a chain braid with the rope.
The clip-on bridle is a terrific piece of equipment because it uses the rope
halter as the chin strap with two easy snaps.
Check out the slobber straps, clip-on bridle, and mecate keeper at
www.equineconnections.net, online catalog.
NEW TOLL-FREE NUMBER: 1-888-412-3756
Now you can call us toll-free for orders and questions!
SLOBBER STRAPS
$33.00 shipping included (single thickness)
$43.00 shipping included (double thickness) **Preferred product**
Colors available: Black, Dark Brown, Light Oil, Russet
These contoured slobber straps measure 18" from end to end, and are cut with a
3/4" hole and slit for easy insertion of rope reins. The slobber straps are made
of heavy harness leather and are edge-stitched for added durability. Stamped
with the Equine Connections logo.
SEE MORE PHOTOS & ORDER
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER CLINICS
LEVEL I CLINIC
"Respect & Partnership"
Oakrise Farm, Goffstown, NH
October 28 & 29,
November 18 & 19 10am - 4pm
THE WOODSTOCK CLINIC HAS BEEN CANCELLED DUE TO LACK OF REGISTRATION. WE WILL
RESCHEDULE IN THE SPRING!
COST: $275 for all four sessions.
Auditors: $25/day
PRE-REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED - Space is limited to ensure individual attention
and safety. Overnight boarding available, Indoor arena.
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT: Training stick, 12' rope and rope halters are necessary for
this clinic and can be purchased on-line, or at the clinic. YOU ARE WELCOME TO
USE WHAT YOU HAVE.
PRE-REGISTER FOR CLINIC &
ORDER EQUIPMENT
"WHAT HORSES HAVE TO TEACH US" . . .
Horses have a way of
humbling humans. They come with such individual personalities and quirks that
make us wonder "where did that behavior come from"?
I recall a friend of mine who witnessed my mare refuse me several times and
buck. Apparently it left such a negative impression on her that she felt
compelled to say: "How do you put up with it? She always challenges you."
The truth of the matter is that she does challenge me in every way a horse
SHOULD challenge a human. Sure, another horse probably would be easier, but that
isn't the horsemanship I'm looking for. I believe that horses are our mirror,
and sometimes the reflection in that mirror isn't what we wanted or expected. I
have met plenty of hypercritical people in my life; people who view the world
with disdain and criticism. I think my horse is hypercritical of humans because
of the way she was treated in her young life. She doesn't have much reason to
like people, but she likes me and that's all that matters.
I certainly don't advocate going out and buying yourself an angry horse with a
laundry list of problems, but I do advocate that you learn to look into your
mirror and figure out what your horse is telling you about yourself.
The day my friend was riding with me, I was asking Dakota for lateral work.
Hopefully you can appreciate how difficult this is for a horse and what kind of
physical and mental preparation it takes to achieve it. She refused me a couple
of times and eventually stopped trying because I had stopped asking nicely. I
was behaving like a human, so when she didn't respond to my aids like I wanted,
I strengthened my aids. She let me know in no uncertain terms that she wasn't
physically ready to do what I was asking her to do. The moment she bucked, I
knew that the reflection of myself was ugly and disappointing. She had been
trying to tell me that she was NOT comfortable with this yet, because I hadn't
prepared her properly.
My response to the bucking was to stop what I was doing, pet her, and go for a
little hack through the woods.
When we returned to the field again, I made sure that we spent time on the baby
steps of lateral work: lateral flexion; disengaging the hindquarters; moving the
forequarters; and disengaging on a fence.
Although my friend interpreted my actions as being "soft" on my very disobedient
horse; what my horse thinks about me is above everything else! She is my friend
and my partner, yet I had ignored what she was telling me. As a woman in my
mid-forties, I am cautious about choosing my battles with horses, and "bucking"
doesn't happen without a reason. Since I don't have an agenda on a time-line, I
don't have to fix the problem today or tomorrow. By working on my relationship,
I know I can fix whatever isn't working.
Only days after this episode, I had six good steps of a side-pass on a fence;
lateral flexion that most people would die for; the beginnings of vertical
flexion and collection; flawless transitions; a perfect back-up; a pretty good
half-pass; and best of all - Dakota was willing, and she let me know that she
liked the new and improved ME.
" MOVING FORWARD WITH YOUR HORSEMANSHIP"
I recently held a clinic with a group of people
who were students of Parelli Natural Horsemanship. They were a terrific and
talented group of people and horses, but they told me that they had been
studying Level I for quite a few years, and they had run out of new things to do
with their horses. Yikes!!
Get yourself moving forward again! Level I is about establishing safety and
behavior expectations, but there is so much more you can do with your horse, and
your own self-improvement. Don't wait until you and your horse are bored out of
your minds before you move on to Level II and beyond.
Have you ever thought about using a horse's natural instinct for mimicry by
working with two horses at the same time? What about riding one horse, while
working with the other horse on the ground? How about riding your horse through
an obstacle course requiring you to move the horse forward, backward, sideway,
up, down, and under something at varying speeds? Have you tried riding bareback;
driving your horse under saddle with a peacock feather; or, riding bridle-less?
Can you herd your neighbors cows? Can you chase the kids on the school bus? Can
you side-pass to the mailbox, or over a fallen tree on a trail? Can you ask your
horse to back up all the way around a round pen?
Horses learn to adopt the same attitude as the person handling them, so if you
aren't having any fun - neither is your horse! Move forward with your
horsemanship so that you can achieve the partnership that dreams are made of.
Equine Connections offers great clinics, like "Problems & Progress", "Riding
Naturally", "De-spooking Naturally", and the Levels I, II, and III courses.
Don't get stuck in a rut of mediocre horsemanship with negative thinking and
boring routines.
Learn how to play hard & ride naturally at www.equineconnections.net
1-888-412-3756
CHECK OUT THE NEW PRODUCTS
IN THE ON-LINE CATALOG!
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"MAKING THE
CONNECTION"
September/October, 2006
NEWSLETTER
In This Issue:
"Say What You Mean; Mean What You Say"
Featured Equipment
New & Improved Equine Connections Website
"Riding Naturally" & "Despooking Naturally" Clinics -Sept.
Good Passengers Make Good Leaders
Contact Info
"Say What You Mean; Mean What You Say"
The "buzz words" of natural horsemanship training
are: CONSISTENCY, PERSISTENCE, AND REFINEMENT. When we are consistent with our
horse, he learns faster, responds to our aids quicker and becomes more willing.
Consistency causes humans to become clear with their communications because of
the repetition of the cues. As we become more proficient with our skills and
timing, we become more clear for our horse.
Persistence is where most horsemen fail. When our horse doesn't perform the task
immediately, we quickly move onto the next thing, or we put the horse away in
frustration. Horses count on this. Their expert ability at reading humans has
lead them to the conclusion that if they refuse and do the wrong thing for long
enough, the human will give up. It only takes a horse ONE TIME to learn
something, so if your horse braces against you or refuses, and you allow it; you
have effectively taught your horse that bracing is the right thing to do in
order to get you to quit. The next time you ask your horse to do something,
don't stop asking until you get what you asked for! If you are riding and you
ask him to back up, but he doesn't do it right away, just hold your position
until he moves & then quickly release and pet. Only one of you can be in charge,
and it should be you! As a leader, you don't get mad or frustrated; you simply
persist until you get what you want. You make it uncomfortable to do the wrong
thing, but easy to do it right.
When we have been consistent and persistent with our horse's training, we can
then work on refinement. If something goes wrong, then you know that your horse
is telling you that you need to spend more time with him on the steps that lead
up to refinement. For example, if you are trying to teach your horse vertical
flexion, but he doesn't seem to be getting it as quickly as you had hoped; your
horse is probably telling you that you didn't spend enough time on lateral
flexion. When you think about refining something, always give consideration to
the baby steps that lead up to that point in the training. When you find that
something doesn't work, you are wise to go back and fix and earlier step in the
training before moving onto more challenging work.
Once we achieve clarity, consistency and persistence; there comes a point that
we should emphasize our wishes. Imagine that you are working on yielding the
horse's hindquarters under saddle. You have checked your position a couple of
times and you are certain that your cues are clear, yet the horse continues to
ignore your leg. Using a dressage whip or mecate rein, you tap or spank the
horse on the flank behind the leg giving him the cue. Suddenly he moves like you
asked. What you did was "emphasize" your wishes. You made it impossible for him
to continue to ignore your cue; And that my friends, is LEADERSHIP ! When you
are clear with your horse you "Say what you mean, and when you have leadership,
you "Mean what you say".
The photo shows a student moving the hindquarters of her horse. Everything about
her says "Move it"! She has a focused and determined look on her face while she
stares at the part of the horse she wants to move. In this case, the horse
didn't take the hint at phase I or II, so she is demonstrating phase III (the
last warning before she strikes).
Featured Equipment
$29 (SHIPPING INCLUDED). The "BLOCKER TIE RING"
is one of the best horse products available! Whether you are teaching your horse
to tie for the first time, or you want a safe way to tie an "old pro", The
Blocker Tie Ring offers safety and versatility. It can be attached to a single
post, a wall, your trailer, or used on a picket-line. Depending on the level of
security you desire, the Blocker Tie Ring provides three levels of resistance
against pulling to teach horses to "give" to pressure. It's unique design allows
the rope to easily slide through the ring in the event that the horse falls,
thus preventing serious injury. The Blocker Tie Ring is sold with illustrated
instructions for use. Chrome Plated or Stainless Steel.
New
& Improved Equine Connections Website
Take a tour of the new & improved Equine Connections website. We have added lots
of photos from the clinics; an on-line discussion page; new articles; and, new
items in our catalog. We will be adding some educational video clips in the near
future.
You can also register for free give-always from the website. In celebration of
Equine Affaire in Springfield, MA in November, we will be offering 2 tickets to
the Pfizer Fantasia show, plus some bonus items with your tickets.
Click here to
visit us on the web
"Riding Naturally" & "Despooking Naturally" Clinics -Sept.
On September 23rd will be "Despooking Naturally" from 10am-3pm at Stoney Creek
Farm in Ascutney, VT. The clinic will be followed by "Riding Naturally I"
(one-day course) on September 24th from 10am - 3pm. $100/day, $20/day auditors,
$20 for overnight boarding.
The "Riding Naturally" (2-day) course that was originally scheduled for Labor
Day weekend had to be rescheduled due to weather. The new dates are: September
30th & October 1st. It will be held at Dream Catcher Stable in Auburn, NH from
10am-3pm. The fee is $200 and auditors are welcome at $20/day. Overnight
boarding is available for $20.
Click here to read
more about clinics & to pre-register
Good Passengers Make Good Leaders
I offer a course called "Riding Naturally" that begins with teaching people how
to be good passengers for their horse. Let me explain what a good passenger is:
Good passengers focus on making themselves comfortable for their horse to carry.
Good passengers don't micro-manage, get angry, brace, grip, bounce or fall off.
When you begin your ride, your focus should be on your own skills in the saddle
by concentrating on your position and balance. Are you positioned in the center
of the saddle? Are you sitting on your "balance point"? Are you moving in synch
with your horse's movements?
Eliminate the brace in your body by resisting the urge to guide your horse.
Pedaling with your feet in the stirrups will greatly help with this. If you are
busy pedaling with the timing of your horse's stride, then you are too busy to
brace and unable to grip. Eliminating the brace in your body also means that
your lower back is flexible and rounded, so that you can absorb the impact of
your horse's movements. If you are uncertain of the position of your lower back,
pull your belly button in (suck in your stomach) and place a hand on or above
your horse's withers and push your butt down and back in the saddle. Memorize
the position of your lower back and then return to sitting upright without
losing the rounding of your lower back.
Go where your horse goes, and learn to go with your horse's speed. If your horse
becomes more "speedy" that you feel comfortable with, slow him down with one
rein, and one rein only. If you pull back with two reins, it will only cause you
to brace.
Mirror your horse by looking in the same direction your horse looks. If your
horse looks right, you should look right with the same bend and the same depth.
If your horse stops; you stop. If your horse lowers his head; you should lower
your head.
Becoming a good passenger for your horse causes you to be loose and flexible,
but very heavy in the lowest part of your saddle. If you are unable to maintain
your position in the lowest part of your saddle, then you should consider using
shims to elevate the front of your saddle. As a general rule, you should feel as
though you are always riding slightly uphill.
Another great technique to moving in synch with your horse is to move your arms
at the elbows, matching the movements of the horse's front legs. If your horse's
left front leg extends forward, your left arm should "match" that movement.
Don't be concerned with how this looks. This isn't about how it might look in
the show ring. Riding Naturally is about how it feels: For you and for your
horse. You are simply preparing for riding by doing a pre-ride "warm-up" on
yourself. Most people are concerned with warming up their horse, but they never
consider their own riding faults, which includes stiffness. The Equine
Connections program teach us that we have to perfect ourselves before we can ask
for performance from our horse. Our own perfection involves clarity and
consistency, which can only be achieved by learning how to be a good passenger
and learning how to follow the feel of our horse's movements.
How do good passengers make good leaders" Since good passengers don't
micro-manage, they allow their horse to make mistakes and then correct the
mistakes. When riders are consumed and obsessed with preventing their horse from
making wrong choices, it makes us brace, grip, pull, kick and become frustrated.
The ride isn't enjoyable because we work so hard at maintaining the horse's
speed and direction. By giving up your obsession with control, you are
ultimately gaining control because now you are a leader and teacher. Turning
your riding experiences into opportunities to teach and learn, creates a
thinking horse, riding excellence and true "partnership" between horse and
human.
Learn how to play hard & ride naturally at
www.equineconnections.net
1-888-412-3756
CHECK OUT THE NEW PRODUCTS
IN THE ON-LINE CATALOG!
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